Lululemon (LULU) Sees China Become Its Central Growth Pillar


1. China: The Core Growth Engine

Status: Most Critical Market for LULU’s Growth Story

Why China Matters

  • China is now Lululemon’s second-largest market, surpassing Canada.
  • Americas growth: ~1%
  • China growth: ~25% YoY
  • Without China, global revenue growth would be near zero.
  • Premium pricing in China (~20% higher than U.S.) supports global margins.
  • Expansion runway remains long with Tier 2 city openings.
  • China now ~16% of total revenue (up from ~13% last year).

Key Operating Metrics (Q2 FY25)

  • China revenue: ~$393M, +25% YoY
  • Comparable sales: +17%
  • Stores: On track for 200 by year-end FY25

Bull Drivers

  • Men’s category adoption stronger than in the West
  • Effective community & KOL marketing on Douyin/Xiaohongshu
  • Chinese wellness trend aligns with LULU’s brand identity

Risks

  • High-quality “dupes” on Taobao/TikTok
  • Local competitors (e.g., Maia Active)
  • Geopolitical/tariff risk
  • Nationalist boycott risk

Thesis:
Owning LULU today is a bet that China can sustain 20%+ growth for the next 3 years.
If China slows to single digits → thesis breaks.


2. Competitive Landscape (U.S. Market Weakness)


Aerie (AEO / OFFLINE)

  • Aerie’s OFFLINE line is a direct competitor in value athleisure.
  • Latest comparable sales: +11%, significantly outperforming LULU Americas (~1%).
  • Entry-level consumers are trading down due to price sensitivity.
  • OFFLINE is capturing the dupe economy—younger shoppers prefer lower-cost alternatives.
  • Competition limited to: leggings, bras, loungewear (not technical gear).

Implication:
LULU is losing share in youth/value categories, especially in lower-priced leggings.


Free People Movement (URBN: FP Movement)

  • FP Movement is Lululemon’s biggest premium competitor right now.
  • Strong growth confirms women are still buying activewear.
  • FP offers a boho-active, fashion-forward aesthetic.
  • Trend-conscious shoppers are rotating away from LULU’s minimalist/technical look.

Implication:
The premium customer isn’t disappearing—she’s shifting to brands with stronger fashion identity.


Nike, On Holding, HOKA (Deckers)

  • Compete more heavily on performance vs aesthetic.
  • Still relevant but not the core driver of share shifts this year.
  • ONON and HOKA gaining traction in running and training categories.

3. Macro Fashion Rotation

Trend Shift:
The U.S. consumer has rotated from:

Leggings & athleisure → Denim & structured outfits

Evidence:

  • URBN and AEO outperforming due to denim strength.
  • LULU’s core category (leggings) has lost trend momentum.
  • “Going-out” apparel gaining share vs comfort clothing.

Implication:
LULU’s U.S. softness is not due to lack of activewear demand globally—
It’s due to trend rotation + competition + price sensitivity.


4. Fundamental Backdrop

Margins & Profitability

  • Gross margin ~58.5% (down 110 bps)
  • Operating margin ~20.7% (down 210 bps)
  • Pressure from U.S. markdowns and customer acquisition costs.

Valuation

  • P/E (TTM): ~13x (historically cheap)
  • P/E (Forward): ~19–21x
  • EV/EBITDA: ~7.5x
  • Market pricing LULU like a no-growth retailer despite strong cash flow.

Balance Sheet

  • Zero long-term debt
  • $1.2B+ cash
  • Strong FCF → aggressive buybacks

5. Final Synthesis — What Actually Matters for Investors

Bull Case

  • China’s accelerating growth offsets U.S. stagnation
  • International runway is long
  • Valuation deeply discounted vs historical averages
  • Margins remain best-in-class
  • Buybacks amplify EPS at low multiples

Bear Case

  • U.S. saturation + fashion shift to denim
  • Competition: Aerie gains value share, FP Movement gains fashion share
  • Margin erosion from promotions
  • China geopolitical risk
  • If China growth slows → the entire thesis weakens

6. One-Line Summary

Lululemon’s investment case now hinges almost entirely on China’s continued 20%+ growth, while domestic trends show clear competitive and fashion-driven headwinds from Aerie, FP Movement, and the denim rotation.