Lululemon (LULU) Sees China Become Its Central Growth Pillar
1. China: The Core Growth Engine
Status: Most Critical Market for LULU’s Growth Story
Why China Matters
- China is now Lululemon’s second-largest market, surpassing Canada.
- Americas growth: ~1%
- China growth: ~25% YoY
- Without China, global revenue growth would be near zero.
- Premium pricing in China (~20% higher than U.S.) supports global margins.
- Expansion runway remains long with Tier 2 city openings.
- China now ~16% of total revenue (up from ~13% last year).
Key Operating Metrics (Q2 FY25)
- China revenue: ~$393M, +25% YoY
- Comparable sales: +17%
- Stores: On track for 200 by year-end FY25
Bull Drivers
- Men’s category adoption stronger than in the West
- Effective community & KOL marketing on Douyin/Xiaohongshu
- Chinese wellness trend aligns with LULU’s brand identity
Risks
- High-quality “dupes” on Taobao/TikTok
- Local competitors (e.g., Maia Active)
- Geopolitical/tariff risk
- Nationalist boycott risk
Thesis:
Owning LULU today is a bet that China can sustain 20%+ growth for the next 3 years.
If China slows to single digits → thesis breaks.
2. Competitive Landscape (U.S. Market Weakness)
Aerie (AEO / OFFLINE)
- Aerie’s OFFLINE line is a direct competitor in value athleisure.
- Latest comparable sales: +11%, significantly outperforming LULU Americas (~1%).
- Entry-level consumers are trading down due to price sensitivity.
- OFFLINE is capturing the dupe economy—younger shoppers prefer lower-cost alternatives.
- Competition limited to: leggings, bras, loungewear (not technical gear).
Implication:
LULU is losing share in youth/value categories, especially in lower-priced leggings.
Free People Movement (URBN: FP Movement)
- FP Movement is Lululemon’s biggest premium competitor right now.
- Strong growth confirms women are still buying activewear.
- FP offers a boho-active, fashion-forward aesthetic.
- Trend-conscious shoppers are rotating away from LULU’s minimalist/technical look.
Implication:
The premium customer isn’t disappearing—she’s shifting to brands with stronger fashion identity.
Nike, On Holding, HOKA (Deckers)
- Compete more heavily on performance vs aesthetic.
- Still relevant but not the core driver of share shifts this year.
- ONON and HOKA gaining traction in running and training categories.
3. Macro Fashion Rotation
Trend Shift:
The U.S. consumer has rotated from:
Leggings & athleisure → Denim & structured outfits
Evidence:
- URBN and AEO outperforming due to denim strength.
- LULU’s core category (leggings) has lost trend momentum.
- “Going-out” apparel gaining share vs comfort clothing.
Implication:
LULU’s U.S. softness is not due to lack of activewear demand globally—
It’s due to trend rotation + competition + price sensitivity.
4. Fundamental Backdrop
Margins & Profitability
- Gross margin ~58.5% (down 110 bps)
- Operating margin ~20.7% (down 210 bps)
- Pressure from U.S. markdowns and customer acquisition costs.
Valuation
- P/E (TTM): ~13x (historically cheap)
- P/E (Forward): ~19–21x
- EV/EBITDA: ~7.5x
- Market pricing LULU like a no-growth retailer despite strong cash flow.
Balance Sheet
- Zero long-term debt
- $1.2B+ cash
- Strong FCF → aggressive buybacks
5. Final Synthesis — What Actually Matters for Investors
Bull Case
- China’s accelerating growth offsets U.S. stagnation
- International runway is long
- Valuation deeply discounted vs historical averages
- Margins remain best-in-class
- Buybacks amplify EPS at low multiples
Bear Case
- U.S. saturation + fashion shift to denim
- Competition: Aerie gains value share, FP Movement gains fashion share
- Margin erosion from promotions
- China geopolitical risk
- If China growth slows → the entire thesis weakens
6. One-Line Summary
Lululemon’s investment case now hinges almost entirely on China’s continued 20%+ growth, while domestic trends show clear competitive and fashion-driven headwinds from Aerie, FP Movement, and the denim rotation.
